Scion wood refers to smaller, younger shoot systems that you graft onto older vines. In contrast, the stock or rootstock is the mature vine growing in the ground that the scion is grafted onto. Wait until well after a major freeze occurs. Doing so reduces the risk of accidentally damaging the fresh shoots.
For best results, you should also look for canes that have received plenty of sunlight. Avoid canes that grew primarily in shade.
For longer scion wood, make sure that the canes you cut have buds in multiples of two (two, four, six, eight, etc. ). Select round canes that are 5/16 inches (7. 9 mm) to 9/16 inches (14. 3 mm) in diameter. Use a sharp blade to make a flat cut on the bottom of the cane and an angled cut on the top of the cane. Make sure that there is excess stem extending beyond the buds on either end, too.
It’s best to bundle scion wood in groups of 100, but smaller groups can work if necessary. Ideal temperatures range between 34 and 36 degrees Fahrenheit (1. 1 and 2. 2 degrees Celsius). Remove the scion wood from storage a full day before you intend to graft the vines. Allow them to sit out and gradually reach the current outdoor temperature.
Note that this is the simplest grafting method to use and generally produces good results. You should cut the top based on the desired head height of the grafted vine. Make the cut at a clean, unblemished portion of the vine and cut until the height of the rootstock is roughly 4 inches (10 cm) shorter than your final desired head height.
This split needs to be at least 2 inches (4 cm) deep. Hold this split open while you prepare the scions by keeping the chisel inside.
Make straight, even cuts that taper down from the lowest bud to the bottom of the scion. The tapered edge should be about 2 inches (4 cm), or about as long as the rootstock split is deep. Note that the outer edge of the scion is usually a little wider than the inner edge. Cutting the wood in this way makes it easier for the scion to come into contact with the correct part of the rootstock. The bottom of the taper should be about 1/16 inch (1. 6 mm) wide.
Remove the chisel before fitting the scions. If necessary, use a large, flat screwdriver to hold one side of the split open as you wedge a scion inside. Push the scions down until the cambium layers of the scions and rootstock meet. The cambium is the single layer of active plant cells located just beneath the bark. The connection between the two separate vines will establish itself at this level.
Sealing the split seals existing moisture in and keeps excess moisture out. Apply the grafting compound very generously using a wide, stiff paintbrush. For extra protection, you may even wish to apply interior latex paint over the dried grafting compound.
This method is also among the simplest grafting methods for grape vines, but it tends to be slightly less particular and slightly less successful than cleft grafting. Bark slipping occurs when the bark actually begins to separate and peel away from the wood of the vine. Ideally, you should wait until all of the bark on a vine begins to split before trying to use this grafting method. You only need to cut 4 inches (10 cm) or so from the top of the vine. You can cut more if you desire a shorter head height, though.
This cut should be about 2 inches (4 cm) long and should be straight yet slanted. For best results, position this cut on the opposite side of the bud. [6] X Research source Make a secondary cut on the opposite (bud) side of the scion. This cut should be similar in shape but only one-third the length of the primary cut.
Remove the loose outer bark from the intended grafting location. Hold the cut edge of the scion against the intended grafting location on the stock. Cut a slit into the bark on both sides. The slit should be as wide as the diameter of the scion and as deep as the full scion length.
You may need to use a flat screwdriver to help you peel away the flap of bark on the stock. Roughly one-third to one-half of this flap should be removed before you place the scion into the wedge. The long side of the scion should be placed against the trunk of the stock.
For additional security, hold the graft together with 1-inch (2. 5-cm) long brads or staples from a staple gun. Seal as normal, then apply latex paint over the dried grafting compound.
This method is a little more difficult than cleft and bark grafting, but it is still fairly simple and works best when you’re dealing with young, thing vines. Note that the scion diameter should roughly match the diameter of the rootstock vine you plan to use.
This process is best done on vines that are only one or two years in age. The vines must be no greater than 3/4 inch (1. 9 cm) in diameter, making this method ideal for vines that are too small to be grafted using cleft or bark grafting.
The cambium is a single layer of active plant cells found just beneath the bark of the vine. The two vines must be connected at their cambium layers if they are to join into one vine. If the rootstock is wider than the scion, you may need to settle for matching the cambium layer on one side of the graft only.
Both cuts should start roughly one-quarter of the way down from the point of sloped cut on both the scion and the stock. These tongues help hold the graft together more securely and keep the structure a little more rigid.
Sealing is important with all methods, but it is especially important with this one. Make sure that you are using thick grafting rubber tape or electrical tape when wrapping the grafted area. Apply a generous amount of asphalt grafting compound with a stiff paintbrush and add a coat of interior latex paint over the grafting compound once it dries.
